Rusmir Musić

Kelly Dobos

Cosmetic Chemist Consultant 


MSc, Pharmaceutical Sciences, Cosmetic Science Concentration, University of Cincinnati

MBA, Innovation and Technology Management Focus, Cleveland State University

BA, Chemistry, Oberlin College

Kelly Dobos adores a good beauty magazine. As a teenager, she especially loved the advertisements for colorful cosmetics. Today, she knows exactly where those colors come from.

Dobos is a cosmetic chemist. She pairs a deep understanding of the biology and physiology of hair, skin, and nails with an extensive knowledge of myriad chemical components that can give those body parts color, gloss, and moisture. She has designed the chemical formulations for lotions, creams, sunscreens, lipsticks, lip balms, eyeshadows, foundation, nail polish, and more.

She honed her skills through lab work at cosmetics companies, as well as through a carefully crafted academic path that earned her a BA in chemistry from Oberlin College, an MBA from Cleveland State University, and an MSc in pharmaceutical sciences from the University of Cincinnati.

Sometimes people dismiss work in the cosmetics industry as not very scientific, but there is so much chemistry involved in developing these products, says Dobos.

When I put on lipstick or get a manicure, I feel a little bit bolder. I love knowing that I’m helping others achieve that feeling, or just bringing a little joy to their days.

How did you become a cosmetic chemist?

I studied chemistry as an undergraduate because I loved learning about the world around me on a molecular level. After graduating, I worked as a lab technician at a personal care products company. That job led to a position at Bonne Bell, Inc.  There I developed new Lip Smackers lip balms and other makeup products. I got so excited whenever I’d see one of my products on a shelf or in a magazine.

I soon made it a goal to become the best cosmetic chemist I could be. I kept working at cosmetics companies. But I also studied the business including aspects of marketing so I could better collaborate with marketing colleagues or supply chains so I could more thoughtfully select ingredients. And I studied pharmaceutical sciences with a cosmetic science concentration so I could better understand the biology of skin, nails, and hair, and how the molecules in formulations interact with those substrates.

When I put on lipstick or get a manicure, I feel a little bit bolder. I love knowing that I’m helping others achieve that feeling, or just bringing a little joy to their days.

How did you develop your expertise in color?

At Bonne Bell, all of those lip balms were colored and flavored. We were coming up with new product launches every quarter—new packs for Christmas or spring, or for co-branding with M&M’S or Jell-O. It was a deep dive into flavor, fragrance, and color chemistry.

Working with color is both an art and a science. There’s the art to mixing colors. But there’s also the science of understanding how different color additives behave in particular products. Ultramarine blue, for example, isn’t stable in products with a low pH. It can actually decompose and produce hydrogen sulfide gas, which smells like rotten eggs.

Is there a product that you were especially proud to develop?

I developed new formulations for hand sanitizer when I worked at GOJO Industries, which makes Purell products. You may not think of hand sanitizer as a cosmetic, but there are many items that straddle the line between cosmetics and drug products like sunscreens, acne treatments, and toothpastes with fluoride.

With hand sanitizer, the goal is to keep people healthy by reducing the potentially harmful microbes on our hands. But you also have to keep the hands healthy so the skin doesn’t become dry and cracked.

Some of the details of that formulation work are proprietary, but whenever I’m creating a new formulation, my goal is always to deliver efficacy safely. I have to consider many other factors too, like consumer trends, ease and sustainability of the manufacturing process, and ingredient regulations in different countries.

Now you’re a consultant working out of your own home lab. What is your typical day like?

I start every morning by reading trade publications and news to catch up on developments in the cosmetics industry and the broader economy that could impact my clients. Then I dive into whatever project is at hand. Today, that means I’m scouring journal articles and compiling a report on a specific class of ingredients.

Other days, I work in my lab experimenting with formulation prototypes, or thinking of unique ways to utilize new ingredients. Trying out my own prototypes is always a big part of the process. I might play with the types and concentration of emollients—silicones, esters, and oils—and then test to see if a moisturizer feels silkier as I rub it into my skin.

When I’m not working at home, I’m teaching and mentoring. Right now, I’m an instructor for a laboratory course on color cosmetic formulations at the University of Cincinnati, and I’m also mentoring several master’s students working on their capstone projects.

Do you have any advice on how to build a career in cosmetic chemistry?

A solid foundation in chemistry, biochemistry, or chemical engineering is so important. From there, you can build many different careers in cosmetic science. Everyone looks to formulation and product development. But there are also chemists who work for raw material suppliers developing new ingredients. There are chemists who specialize in toxicology, or process engineering, or quality control. Explore your options and find the career that most interests you and gets you motivated. I feel so lucky that I am continually excited about what I do.


This profile has been edited for length and clarity. The opinions expressed in this interview are the author's own and do not necessarily reflect the view of their employer or the American Chemical Society.